To Santiago de Compostela

From Botos I made my way, in the intermittent drizzle, 17.5kms to Silleda.  Thankfully the drizzle eventually stopped, but my umbrella was constantly going up and down, and because it was so unpleasant weather wise, I have few photos.

I actually made my own way for some of this day, rather than following the map and signs.  At one point, after coming down a steep hill, the path was in close proximity to the river, and after heavy rain overnight I didn't like the chances of it being mud free. Instead, I took the road bridge over the river, meandering on various tracks until I reached the waymarks again.

Igrexa de Santa Baia de Donsión

The old railway bridge in the distance, and the road bridge I chose to cross instead of following the River (and mud). Ponte Taboada

Despite the weather, it was a lovely day.  Quite ethereal at times, with the path wandering through forests, but not far from the main road.  At A Laxe, I passed the rather large Xunta albergue.  This is the point where pilgrims walking the Camino Invierno merge, and from here I was on familiar ground as I walked that path a few years ago.

A Laxe Xunta albergue 

Last time I walked this section I remember resting at the lovely Romanesque Iglesia Santiago de Taboada.  It was All Saints Day then, and all the graves around the church had beautiful pot plants, a lot of Chrysanthemums, and the whole place was very colourful.  The church was locked then, but this time a man came past with keys, unlocking it so I could see inside.  I sang for him as a thank you.

The Romanesque Iglesia Santiago de Taboada.

A statue outside the church

Inside the Iglesia  - San Roche

Fatima

I arrived at Silleda and for €5 extra (€20) managed to snag a single room in the albergue which was nice.

The Church in Silleda 

From Silleda I had 24.5kms of walking to reach Ponte Ulla.  There were 4 Irish walking too, and our paths kept criss-crossing.  I had seen them at breakfast a few days ago and we had arrived at a bar together several times, though they walked much faster than me.  

Because there was so much water around I was very careful on the VERY steep descent down to the Rio Ulla and over the bridge into the village.  I well remember that descent from the last time, and how I thought I would never get there!  I knew what to expect this time because I hadn't come as far as the last time, and it was still only early afternoon.  Last time I arrived after dark, and was shattered!

Two of "the Irish "

This is what I looked like for most of the day, still wearing my worn out shoes!

Castro, part way down the steep descent to Ponte Ulla

This was another day of showers and drizzle.  The Irish were impressed with my umbrella set up.  I had booked a single room (with en-suite) at an albergue which cost me the grand sum of €15.  The day had some muddy patches and my feet had got quite wet walking through wet grass, not to mention walking down some paths that had turned to streams.  However, knowing that the next day was going to be fine, and mostly on solid paths I took great pleasure in a little ceremony on arrival in my room.  I deposited my shoes, poor worn out things that they were, AND my threadbare socks into the bin!  

Approaching Ponte Ulla

Given the amount of mud and water I have encountered over the past week, I was glad that I had persevered with the worn out articles.  Imagine though the pleasure I felt the next day with new socks and shoes for the last day into Santiago! I positively bounced my way there!

This was a both a happy and sad day.  Happy because I would reach my destination, but sad because this wonderful journey was coming to an end.  I was in no hurry.  The weather was fine, foggy initially then overcast, and I had booked my accommodation, and so it didn't matter when I arrived.

Many pilgrims had gone onto the albergue in Outeiro, with only a few of us staying at the albergue in Ponte Ulla.  This meant they only had 17kms to walk, compared to what I actually did - 23kms.

The albergue in Outeiro 

I had forgotten that the path this way, though near villages, skims past them, and it wasn't until I was nearly in Santiago that I was able to stop for refreshments.  The path goes through Eucalyptus forests, with a steep incline over a saddle as it enters the suburbs of Santiago de Compostela.

Looking towards the saddle I had to cross....

.... and once over.

I remember last time I entered the city on this route I followed my own path whereas this time, I followed the signs.  Each of the paths funnelling into Santiago have a different entry.  This route had few pilgrims on it, but the entrance points for the Camino Portuguese and the Camino Frances has a constant stream of pilgrims entering the city.

Nearly there, the Cathedral towers clearly visible 

The only remaining bit of wall surrounding the city, and this path goes through the "gate"

Rather than go straight to my accomodation I did what most pilgrims do and went to the Praza Obradoiro.  I was quite emotional, having arrived after such a long journey, and lingered for some time watching the pilgrims arriving.

Arriving through the gate to the Praza Obradoiro 

I have arrived.  Note the new shoes!

The pilgrim room in San Martin Pinario, complete with an ensuite, and breakfast every morning, for which I pay €30 per night.

San Martin Pinario, my accomodation 

I have completed, in Spain, with my pack, 503 kilometres - that is, since I broke my arm and leg.  I began in mid June (16th), 2024 and in that time I completed a total of 2,820 kilometres, about 1,500 short of what I intended, but a pretty good effort all things considered!

This isn't the end of the blog.  There is much to tell you about Santiago - but that is for the next post.