Back on the road, and all is well.

The day, Sunday, began with a walk down the hill and then up to the Cathedral where I, along with many (maybe 150) other pilgrims attended the 7am Mass.  At the conclusion we were given a blessing and we set off, some with packs on, others, like me, returning to their accomodation to have brekky and collect their packs.

The bags lined up at Mass 

Below these screens there is a very long flight of stairs to the door of the Cathedral, and another equally long one to the street.  The back screen comes up first, then the side screens come up.  All very silent.

Pilgrims departing

This is the path that most pilgrims were leaving by, hence the shells above my head.  I turned right at the end of this street and headed south.

Rain overnight had dramatically lowered the temperature and it was a pleasant, if  late, start to the day.  Because I attended the Mass, had a leisurely breakfast, and had to do all my foot exercises I was a couple of hours late leaving on this first day back on the road.  

Once out of the city there was a steepish climb, with splendid views looking back.  The only problem was that the path here was also quite rocky and I didn't want to create new feet problems.  This meant I was slower than I would normally be, placing my feet carefully to avoid any twists.  The bad foot was good, but the good foot has had a few compensatory twinges, although, after three days, I am making good progress at last.

Looking back at le Puy-en-Velay 

I was a bit worried about where I would stay that first night, rightly, as it turned out.  I gave the place where I made the initial request for a bed a few hours to respond to the message, and then started on others.  All with the same result - no response.  I was still walking at 7.00 when I reached the last hope for accommodation.   I knocked on the door and was greeted with the words "we're full"!  About 300 meters back down the road there was a bus stop, and so I told the lady I would go and sleep there.  Her response was to open the door, with the words "I can't have you sleeping outside".  I'm so glad she did, because that night it dropped to 7°, and I don't have anywhere near enough warm clothes yet for a few hours of those temperatures. 

I am loving being back in harness, and I am really enjoying this way.  This is in the Cévennes, where Robert Louis Stevenson went wandering with his donkey, Modestine.  The views are spectacular, but not very photographable as they are very distant; blue mountains, rolling fields, cows, horses, a few sheep and lots of tractors are what I see.

Just some of the views and paths I have seen.

Costaros

Along with that I have gone through some extraordinary villages.  Last night I was in Pradelles, a very historic town, just full of fascinating buildings.  This town became a very important place of pilgrimage itself, as well as being on the pilgrimage route of the Regordane Way.

The ancient chapel, a pilgrim destination.   Once so busy that pennies charged for a bowl of soup were said to fill a large laundry basket.

Pradelles 

Tonight I am only 6 kilometres further on in Langogne, another ancient town.  In the historic centre the houses all curve around the ancient church.  The path I am on has been criss crossing the Stevenson way, and at times they are the same.  A lot of the overnight stops are also the same which is what is making finding a bed so difficult. 

Scenes from Langogne 

Eglise St. Gervais - St. Protais