Getting closer to Santiago

From Ourense, after crossing the Rio Miño over the Roman bridge, the day began with a VERY steep climb.  There were two options and whichever one was taken there was a steep climb.  I opted for the steepest climb - because it was a kilometre shorter!  Nonetheless, the day was still 22kms in length.

Leaving Ourense on the ancient bridge 

Crossing the Rio Miño 

The point for decision making. I went left.

Scenes from Ourense.

On the other side of the Rio Miño, as I was leaving Ourense, i passed this church.   It had a Templar cross on its door.

Apart from having to deal with cars on the busy road leading out of Ourense, and then up the steep climb, it was a pleasant day.  I left as early as I could as the forecast was not good and I could think of nothing worse than having to work hard uphill for about three kilometres with a raincoat on!  

I was headed towards Cea, a very old village, and very Galician with lots of stone.  Once up the hill, the path meandered through delightful countryside.  As usual in this part of the world the villages I passed through had no services, though I did find one bar open where I was able to get a cold drink,  but no food.

On the way to Cea

On the way to Cea I crossed an ancient bridge at Mandras

Old buildings, in ancient villages.  This one in Mandras 

I arrived at the albergue in Cea just as the first drops of rain fell.  Perfect timing.  I was so early that I was able to put my pack down and go out for lunch - at 3.45.  This gives you an idea of the time schedule one works on in Spain.  By having a late lunch one doesn't need to have dinner.  I find 9.00pm far too late to eat dinner and be able to then sleep well.

The albergue was a huge old stone building, but fortunately warm and cosy.  There are now approximately 20 - 30 pilgrims walking towards Santiago.   A group of us ended up having brekky in the only cafe open the next morning, but I lingered, as I only had a short day and didn't want to arrive too early.  I was hopeful too of being able to walk between the promised showers rather than in them.

The albergue had three large horreo at its entrance. 

Cea is full of ancient buildings, some in better condition than others.

Leaving Cea I passed this church, closed of course, but I was able to enter through the gates and wander around0.

My destination this day was to Arenteiro, a small village with no services.  It was only 6.5 kilometres away, but I chose to stay here so that the next day wasn't too long (it would have been a 30km plus day). The albergue here was new, and the hospitalero arrived at 1.00, leaving at 10.00pm.  I'm guessing that on some days like that, it would be very boring.   She spent much of her day watching videos.

The alberhue, inside and out, at Arenteiro.

I was the only person staying here, so I had the place to myself.  The Hospitalero ordered a takeway salad for me from the bar a couple of kilometres away.

Capela de Peregrina in Arenteiro, right next to the albergue.  A confirmation was taking place, hence the well dressed people. 

After Arenteiro I was headed, 24kms away, to the village of Botos.  This was a lovely walk with only a couple of hamlets to pass through.  It was quite foggy at the start of the day, and showers threatened intermittently. 

A pilgrim in the distance, through the fog.

Pontenoufe and its mediaeval bridge (below)

The path, through forest, and crossing streams.

A nice little rest stop in A Xeste, before reaching Botos. 

Botos was an odd town, straddling a river, and with a big aqueduct taking the train line across the valley.  Fortunately,  even though I was late arriving for lunch I was able to get something to eat at the only restaurant in town, which meant I didn't have to go out again at dinner time.  Again there was heavy rain overnight, and in the morning as I set off.  Very definitely these have been a couple of raincoat and umbrella days.

Botos and its railway line. 

Botos

I will leave this post here and continue the last few days in the next post.  Actually I have arrived in Santiago de Compostela, but for various reasons I have been off line, but am now back and will catch up.