Norwich, via Castle Acre.

Because the forecast was bad, with numerous yellow warnings for strong winds, on the day that Sharn headed home and I headed for Castle Acre, I caught the bus part way.  As it turned out the little part of Norfolk I was in, was not only very beautiful,  but surprisingly calm.  The path I was on took me past forests, large houses, and down quiet countryside lanes.

This was the biggest house I passed.

I was really enjoying myself, until I reached a large puddle.  It was a case of either wade through it, or clamber up a slippery bank and risk slipping down into the puddle - not the safest of options.  While considering what to do, a car came along.  With nothing to lose, I stopped them and asked if they would ferry me through the water, which, thankfully they agreed to.

I forgot to take a photo of the puddle, but this was the river a few kilometres further along.

From there it was on to the Medieval town of Castle Acre, another surprise.  This is a town that has medieval Castle ruins, including a mound where a Norman castle once stood.  It has the ruins of an ancient priory / abbey, and a very old parish church, named for St James!  While in the church  the warden arrived and gave me a guided tour of the Church.  

The priory ruins at Castle Acre.

The castle ruins, surrounded by a deep moat

This gate is known as the Bailey Gate.  If needed, the guards would lower the portcullis. 

St. James Church, Castle Acre...

...and the interior. 

St James (on right), from an ancient medieval screen.

Even the pub is ancient.  I stayed there, in a room where the floor boards not only squeaked, but sloped in several different directions!  The villagers congregated outside the pub at 6.00pm for mulled wine, mince pies, and an hour of carol singing.   It was lovely to see young adults there, not only for refreshments, but they were actually participating in the singing. 

The ancient pub I stayed in.

The Christmas tree in the village green outside the pub.

Leaving Castle Acre, the path took me past the castle again, before heading off cross country, and along country lanes, through a number of small villages.   The highlight of this day was the churches I passed, which were all open, enabling me to sing my way along.  Added to that, several churches had round towers, a distinctive design in East Anglia.  

West Lexham Church.  There was a beautiful framed calligraphy list of the Rectors and Vicar's of the church - the first date being 1339!

The church at East Lexham

Entering Litcham

The old school at Litcham

Along country lanes. 

At Dereham I caught a bus to Norwich, having every intention of returning the next day to walk into Norwich.  As you should have gathered by now though, intentions don't always work out, and they didn't this time either.  

Arriving in Norwich (a room cost me £35 there, instead of the cheapest I could get at Dereham, £89!), I discovered that a lot of places were closing, including the laundromat, at 1.00 or thereabouts (Christmas Eve).  I abandoned all thoughts of walking, and instead worked on chores, including buying a few food treats for Christmas Day lunch when everything would be closed.

One of the gates to the Cathedral close

Once chores were done I then began attending a marathon of church services at Norwich Cathedral.  For those who haven't been aware, I planned to be in Norwich specifically for the reason that I should be treated to good Christmas music.  Norwich was quite a detour, but it has been well and truly worth it.

What a treat the four services were.  The first, at 3.30 Christmas Eve, was a sort of procession of nine lessons a carols, except that the congregation sang 8 and the choir sang 8 - which adds up to 16!  It was the third time that week that the choir had presented the same service, and there was not a spare space to sit or stand.

The second service was the midnight mass, which began at 11.15 and ended at 1.05am!.  The setting of the mass was by Haydn so was very melodius, with many carols to sing, and more to listen to.

The baptismal font.  This was once used for making chocolate, but when the factory closed the vessel was refashioned  and was presented to the Cathedral for use as a font.

Christmas Day I went to the family service in the morning.   I managed to get a seat quite near the front and on the aisle.  This meant that for a fleeting moment, as the choir processed down the aisle, passing me and with us all singing the carol Christians Awake, I felt like I was in a very grand choir!  As the saying goes, all my christmases had come at once!  At this service they had a brass and percussion ensemble assisting with the music, as well as the choir and organ.  Added to that, this was a congregation which sang!  With gusto!  The brass fanfared,  the timpani and cymbals thundered, and the organ roared at times, and at  others was so quiet I had to strain to listen.  At the end the musicians played the Widor Toccata - what a sound!

After the service on Christmas Day I went to the back of the building.  The cat was sleeping on the step near the candles.

The fourth service, choral Evensong only had two hyms for the congregation to sing, the rest was done by the choir.  This, like the morning service, was by C V Stamford, on of the founders of the Royal College of Music.

The choir stalls

Heading home after Evensong 

There is a beautiful, simple, Nativity Scene at the Cathedral.  One of the shepherds is faceless.  At a lovely thought that was mentioned in the morning is that we can put our own face there, and be part of the scene.

I have refrained from putting quotes in my blog up till now, but want to share the last words spoken at the Carol service I attended on the afternoon of Christmas Eve.  They were written by Howard Thurman, an American theologian and civil rights leader, who lived from 1899 - 1981.  I don't know when in his lifetime he wrote these words, but given that he died in 1981 it has to be at least 43 years ago, and probably even more, yet the words are as poignant now as then - whenever it was written.

When the song of the angels is stilled,

When the star in the sky is gone, 

When the kings and the princes are home, 

When the shepherds are back with their flocks,

The work of Christmas begins:

To find the lost,

To heal the broken,

To feed the hungry, 

To release the prisoner, 

To rebuild the nations,

To bring peace among people, 

To make music in the heart.

I have spent many hours in the Anglican Cathedral the past few days, but I have also explored Norwich.  I visited Julian of Norwich's chapel and even had a sing in it!  I also strolled up to the Catholic Cathedral.  Norwich is one of just a few English cities that have two Cathedrals (others include Liverpool, Newcastle, Portsmouth).  In between I have explored some of the shops and enjoyed one or two coffee's with a pastry treat!

Inside the Julian Chapel 

The cell where Julian lived

The Catholic Cathedral outside ...

... and in

St Giles

Though I haven't been walking my steps count each day has been close to 20,000 so I'm not sitting twiddling my thumbs!  Tomorrow I will return to Dereham by bus and begin the next stage to Cambridge,  via Swaffham and Ely.