Durham and Storm Bert

There is no direct train from Corbridge to Durham, with all passengers headed there, having to go via Newcastle.  Arriving in Newcastle I was faced with an hours wait for the connecting train, which was running late due to some fault.  It was amusing watching all those who had flexible tickets, unlike me, trying to cram onto a train that came 10 minutes earlier.   I waited, and was only about 5 minutes behind in the end.

The train was to London, and because it was a fast train, taking only 9 minutes to get to Durham, I didn't bother finding my allocated seat, standing near the exit instead.  Looking out the window I could see a lot of snow lying on the ground, so was glad I had chosen the train option. 

Arriving in Durham,  just on dark, with snow and ice requiring care so as not to slip.

Same place, two days later, after Storm Bert arrived!  But 24 hours later the temperature had risen by 12° and not a skerrick of snow to be seen.

Durham is a lovely city, on the banks of the River Wear, and famous for its Cathedral.  The Cathedral, indeed the city of Durham, is strongly associated with St Cuthbert.  St Cuthbert was an Abbott at Lindisfarne (also known as Holy Island) and on his death was buried there.  With expected Viking raids, his body, along with the head of St Oswald which was, and is, buried with St Cuthbert, was moved, first to Chester le Street in 875, then finally to Durham in 995.  Monks initially wandered, with his coffin, for many years, avoiding the raiders, until they were given a sign to take him to his final resting place in Durham.  I'm not sure how, but the venerable Bede is also a Saint of the Cathedral. 

Durham Cathedral 

Outside the Cathedral 

A clock inside the Cathedral 

St Cuthbert's shrine.  Not sure why he is headless, but he is holding the head of St Oswald.   Apparently is was not unusual for part of someone else's body to be buried with another!

The shrine cover, or tester - Christ, with symbols of the four evangelists in each corner.

The monks carried St Cuthbert around Northumberland for around three decades.

After Storm Bert.

His shrine in the Cathedral was a medieval pilgrimage site, and is still a place pilgrims visit.  I walked the poles to Holy Island 10 years ago, and visited the cave where the monks were reputed to rest on the first night after leaving Lindisfarne, but didn't get to Durham.

Enough of things historical, now to things meteorological.   Storm Bert is the second named storm that has hit the UK since I began JoGLE.  Snow and heavy rains was forecast, and arrived, with gale force winds added to the mix tomorrow.   This weather event has meant that progress on foot has been non existent, and so in order to arrive in Whitby by Friday to meet my friend Sharn I am going to have to resort to more train travel.

Tobogganing 

The market square after the start of Storm Bert. 

My visit to Durham coincided with the switching of the lights on the Christmas Tree.  It was amazing the number of people in the square, particularly young people, teenagers and young adults as well as children with their parents,  all standing around waiting patiently for the big moment.  Increasingly, over the past few weeks,  the Christmas decorations have been getting more frequent, now with displays both in the streets and in the shop windows.

The crowd in the square.

Waiting to be lit up.

Because of Storm Bert, which began with snow, followed by rain, causing flooding, particularly down South and in Wales, and gale force winds expected overnight and tomorrow, I have lost 5 days of walking.  This means I will have to catch the train again to cover the distance.  Thus tomorrow I will catch the train to Hartlepool and start walking from there.  Unfortunately, I will have missed both the Way of Light to Durham, and the Way of Love from there.