St Duthac's Way

I departed Aberdeen "pack free", having left it at the hotel, intending on training it back to at the end of the day. I have decided that if the distances are too great to walk comfortably for the day that the best bet is to stay several nights in one place, but move forward during the day and either catch a train or bus back at the end of the day. I can walk further, and generally faster, with only a small day pack.

It has been very interesting looking at the colour and architecture of buildings in the towns and villages I walk through. The fishing villages on the Moray Coast were brownish, with lots of added colour, generally blue, red,or green, on the windows and doors, and on occasions even the pointing around the stonework. Then there are towns like Turriff which were reddish, but Aberdeen is grey. Grey granite, with white trim on windows and an occasional red or dark blue door. Later I passed through towns like Montrose which were a definite dark brown - not just brownish.

Grey and white Aberdeen

On my first day on this way I headed down to Stonehaven, just on 30kms away. The path follows the River Dee initially, with a reasonably high levee bank, and at one point, massive gates presumably to close in the event of a flood, before heading through little villages such as Portlethan and Newtonhill.

I walked through the cemetery down to the river. The old people were tough, and long livers - many in their 80's and 90's. Interesting professions, apart from accountants etc, there were numerous granite merchants and trawlermen.

The massive gates in the levee bank

Walking along the River Dee

There were magnificent coastal views and the path at Newtonhill led right down to a little bay. The waves were rolling in and as they receded there was a roar as the pebbles were churned around by the force of the waves. Sadly the last few miles are along the verge of a very busy road, spoiling the day somewhat.

The little cove at Newtonhill.

Looking down on the cove. This man liked to sit and listen to the waves, far below.

In 1888 in a massive storm, the Isabella, laden with coal, was headed to the rocks in the cove below. The locals, using lines from the shore, managed to rescue every crew member

Another golf course! On the way into Stonehaven

After being reunited with my pack, and returning to Stonehaven I set off on an even more spectacular day. Stonehaven is very pretty, a fishing town with a historic harbour. Once past the distractions in the village and harbour, the path ascended to the cliff top, where it wound its precarious way along. There were numerous times when I didn't dare look out!

Leaving Stonehaven on a board walk.

Following the board walk these sculptures entertained.

Stonehaven harbour

Looking down on Stonehaven

It passes a war memorial, perched high on a hill, before passing the formidable and famous Dunnottar Castle. In 1651 Oliver Cromwell laid seige to the castle, attempting to steal the Scottish crown jewells. They were, however, smuggled out of the castle by the minister's wife from a village (Kennif) a few miles away, where they were hidden in the church - buried under the pulpit.

The War Memorial overlooking Stonehaven. Over 200 men from Stonehaven were killed in WW1.

Dunnottar castle

Dunnottar Castle. Note the wee boat near the foot of the cliffs.

The destination for the day was Inverburbie, with the next day's goal being Montrose. I was just about blown there, with a biting head wind most of the day. It was another day with the path hugging the coast and so without the wind it would have been pretty easy - until St Cyrus.

A new use for a dinghy.

I passed these lime kilns on the way to Montrose. Lime burning was a very important industry in this region in years long gone.

On this stage between Inverburbie and Montrose there was a lot of the red sandstone.

With only about 9 kilometres to go to Montrose, I was faced with a steep descent down the cliff face. The grassy path that followed was easy enough, providing I avoided the rabbit holes, but I didn't dare look out while descending to sea level!