The Regordane, continued

I love the Cévennes, this region of France.  It is picturesque, sometimes sparsely populated, and wonderful hiking country.  I have been off line for a while, for a number of reasons, including poor coverage, but probably mostly because every so often I rebel at the thought of typing, yet again!  However, my humour has returned, and I will now share more of this special way - until I stopped, due to another ligament strain!

Interestingly, though I have officially been on the Regordane Way, and the signs pointed accordingly, there were times when I had to ignore the signs and follow the Stevenson way because other than the first sign, I couldn't find any others to follow and chose instead to follow the alternative Stevenson path.
Straight ahead is the Stevenson Way, the Regordane goes off to the right, but after that sign I couldn't find another!

I have already told you about the wonderful mediaeval village of Pradelles.  Well it turns out that this is not the only one on this way!  There is la Garde-Guerin,  Villefort, and Génalhoc to name a few.  
Garde-Guerin, in the distance, and my French companion for a couple of kilometres. 
Garde-Guerin
Villefort
Villefort
Génalhoc 
Génalhoc.  While I stood in this square I was divebombed by swallows!  I felt the rush of air as they flew past, and heard their clacking beaks.  A la magpies!

I was unable to get accomodation at the end of the next stage and so decided to stay two nights in Langogne and walk that day pack free, returning that night by train, repeating it the next morning by train to la Bastide Saint-Laurent-les-Bains.
The covered market in Langogne.
On the Camino there are many frescoes, sculptures and suchlike of pilgrims and St James.  On this way it is references to Stevenson and his donkey.

It was a lovely day, mostly walking through shady forest, and without a pack even the steep ascents and descents (a few marked in red or yellow on the guide profile) didn't feel difficult.   The shade also meant that the heat (high) was not as noticeable either.  


The next stage from la Bastide to Villefort does indeed have spectacular scenery.  There is a lot of forest to walk through, and a spectacular gorge to walk past.  Crowds of young people, led, I hope, by experienced guides were trying their hand at canyoning.  Near the end of this stage I took the opportunity of getting a lift with a woman I met, and walked with, a few kilometres earlier.  I am glad I did, as the car ride was steep enough, and with tired feet, I dread to think how I would have managed the descent into Villefort.   Instead I could sit in comfort, and admire the spectacular scenery.
Spectacular views 

There was even heather on the hills!
The rim of what looks to be a spectacular gorge

Although I took great care with where I was putting my feet, there was one part of the path that became my undoing.  Recognising the symptoms for the injury I stopped as soon as I could.  But - that tale will wait for the next post!  
I'm on a steep rocky path, heading down to the gully, and hoping the the track on the other side is not the path - but no such luck!
The view from the top of the path

Comments

  1. Frances Spencer10 September 2024 at 16:34

    Awesome! Relieved to hear from you again, Janet! Look after that injury!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Janet11 September 2024 at 00:10

    Thanks Fran, and will do. Hope all is well with you. I'm looking forward to Scotland, but the temp. is lower (about the same as home) and I don't collect my winter gear for another 10 days - might have to move fast to stay warm!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Bruce - fellow hikeaholic13 September 2024 at 04:34

    Hi Janet, good to hear you're all ok...ish and still finding lots of treasures on the track.
    We're about to head out on the Lavender Trail for the next 8 days roughly from Tungkillo to Eudunda in what looks like will be pretty mild weather. A bit of preparation for the Grampians Peaks Trail coming up rapidly.
    Hope whatever you've done repairs quickly. Keep smiling! :)

    ReplyDelete
  4. Morgan the Maps13 September 2024 at 17:46

    Hello Janet. Well I have followed your first 90 days with great interest and of course some concerns at different times, but this last post with you walking in the Cevennes through Robert Louis Stevenson country sounds as if you are back on track. And as I write this, on September 14th I imagine you are now just a little way. along the east coast of Scotland on the John O'Groats trail.....where, it seems from the Bureau of Meteorology over there, that the weather is very British. Anyway, enjoy ...... and, as and when you feel like doing so, keep us all updated with your photos and comments. Travel well. John and Diana on a misty morning in Aldgate

    ReplyDelete
  5. Christa M15 September 2024 at 14:01

    Hi Janet you certainly seem to be having some adventures! We are thinking of you starting on the John O Groats Trail. We are currently staying in Penzance and walked some of the SW coastal path near Lands End today. Best wishes, Phil and Christa

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Janet20 September 2024 at 01:32

      Well on the way now Christa, and Phill. Had to resort to the train and bus a few times due to safety with walking on the road. I think you have been having good weather for walking too - almost too hot up here. Have fun, Janet

      Delete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Cambridge - again!

Image
Well, at the end of the last post I  said that my walking came to halt just before reaching the Red Lion Hotel.  In fact since that time I have only hopped, and only in the last two days!  Why?  Well.... This is long and tedious, with only a couple of photos, so don't feel compelled to read it.  I am trying to make it brief, but I know some people want the detail.  Last Saturday evening, a week ago, as I walked down the path on the side of the road, to the hotel, my feet went from under me.  I had slipped on a frozen puddle, which in a momentary lapse of concentration I failed to see.  My momentum, and the weight of my pack flipped me over like a turtle, but in the process my right arm and leg got stuck, while I continued to move.  The result? A broken wrist, and a broken ankle!  A passing dog walker stopped to offer help by carrying my pack, but I had a better idea when I saw someone get into a car opposite.   I asked him to a...
Read more

From Herrstein to Kirn - 14.5kms, our way!

Image
 Today was a much easier day, except for a long hill which seemed to go up, and up, and up. However, we had a very pleasant time, walking through forests, walking alongside fields of ripening grain, and best of all, walking alongside gurgling streams. I was even reminded of the verse from "The Happy Wanderer" - I love to wander by the stream, the gurgles in the sun ...." A couple of dog walkers, from Munich, having a rest. Having had a restorative nights sleep, a substantial breakfast, and made lunch from the leftovers (at our hosts suggestion), we were able to wander around the beautiful historical town of Herrstein, something we were incapable of doing last night.  It truly is a lovely town, as you can see from the photos.    The bendy beams! Having ambled along to our destination of Kirn, and arriving so early, we couldn't access our accommodation, we had a pick me up of a coke for me and a beer for Edith.  We had a delicious meal of a traditional German past...
Read more

Back on the road, and all is well.

Image
The day, Sunday, began with a walk down the hill and then up to the Cathedral where I, along with many (maybe 150) other pilgrims attended the 7am Mass.  At the conclusion we were given a blessing and we set off, some with packs on, others, like me, returning to their accomodation to have brekky and collect their packs. The bags lined up at Mass  Below these screens there is a very long flight of stairs to the door of the Cathedral, and another equally long one to the street.  The back screen comes up first, then the side screens come up.  All very silent. Pilgrims departing This is the path that most pilgrims were leaving by, hence the shells above my head.  I turned right at the end of this street and headed south. Rain overnight had dramatically lowered the temperature and it was a pleasant, if  late, start to the day.  Because I attended the Mass, had a leisurely breakfast, and had to do all my foot exercises I was a couple of hours late leaving on...
Read more