On familiar territory briefly.

Well Joan is back with me tonight.  Where's she been you ask?  Her feet were very sore, we think from her shoes, and so she decided to skip four days (in the heat), and become a tourist.  She has been gadding about sight seeing in Bar-sur-Aube and Langres, places I have walked through in the past.  We are now back together and she will walk the next two days with me before returning home.

The last four days have been very hot and so I have been making as early a start as possible.  Leaving Clairvaux I had around 20kms of walking through a massive forest.  The only people I saw that day were two cyclists whizzing past on a quiet D road and where I just happened to have stopped for the only rest for the day.  This forest was mozzie capital!  As soon as I stopped I would be attacked by them and so the simplest thing was to keep walking.  Even though I had pushed it all day I was fearful that I would not get to the Tourist Office by 6.00pm - the deadline for collecting a key to my accommodation.  With about 4 kms to go, and with the fact that the descent into Essoyes was along a road in the hottest part of the afternoon, I stuck out my thumb.  The first car that came along stopped and the kind man took me right into the centre of town.

Leaving Clairvaux I passed a statue of St Bernard of Clairvaux ....

.... overlooking the abbey complex.

Passed a fountain dedicated to St Bernard

I am so glad I made that decision, as I discovered that this town, Essoyes, was the summer residence for the artist Renoir and his family.  I was able to see an exhibition about him, the village (which is on the River Ource), and the local women he painted over and over, as well as the local scenery.   He and his family visited each summer for years, eventually buying a house there (which I couldn't find).  I had no idea of his connection to the village so it was a lovely surprise.

Essoyes

The lavoir in Essoyes

Essoyes

Renoir's grave, Essoyes.

Though I tried to pay, I was told i was not to pay anything for my room - it is a bed in a church office, all bathroom facilities,  but that was it.  I didn't feel too guilty about not paying when I found I was sleeping amidst books, tables and chairs and music stands.  I was assured several times that no money was required - it was a safe place for me to sleep.

The next day, with a very early start again saw me in the delightful village of Ricey-Bas.  This is heading towards the heartland of champagne making, and indeed I stayed with a champagne making family.  Though I offered several times, Monique would accept no payment.   I think my room was the French equivalent of a donga. 

This village has a huge Chateau,  right in the centre of town, and is obviously a tourist destination and a venue for hire.  Monique was quite peeved that the flowers for a (very big) wedding in the church were in her words "pathetic", but apparently it was the opposite at the Chateau, where the reception was to be held.  She is the keeper of the key for the church, opening and locking it up each day.  She gave me a tour, and in return I sang for her.

The Eglise in Ricey-Bas

One of two carved wooden altar pieces in the church.

The next day was going to be the hottest so far, and so I set off at 6.45am to get as much ground covered  in the cool as possible.   Stopping at a bakery, fortunately, for supplies, I set off.  This is where disaster struck!  I think the heat had addled me, for instead of turning right I turned left.  The path went up hill, through forest, and past vineyards.  It wasn't until I had gone about 10kms and still hadn't seen the village that was meant to be at seven that the penny started to drop!  When I struck a road that could take me to the D road heading back to Les Riceys I took it, stuck out my thumb on reaching it, and got a lift the 14 kms I had walked, to very near where I started.  These two chaps took me to where I should have turned, and because the temperature was already in the low 30's, and I had walked so far thus far, I put my thumb out again and got a ride all the way to Érouvry with a young lass who was a professional dog trainer.  

Looking back at Les-Riceys

This is the first "marker" post I have seen of the champagne makers name

A traditioal "Cadole", or shelter.  Now they are like miniature houses at the side of the vineyards. 

The path was beautiful, just the wrong one!

L'eglise Saint Georges, Etouvry.

This was all a blessing in disguise, as there is nothing in this town, except quaint houses.  There are no shops, but there must be a strong community.  The place I stayed in was gifted to the village and they now use it as a event venue, and have a pilgrim room too.  I had a really good rest there.

I am now in Tonnerre, having had a pleasant walk through fields and forests.  Saw the first lot of sunflowers in flower too.  

The thunder clouds threatened for a few hours, but thankfully their fury had been spent during the night.

The first sunflowers in full bloom...

... but as they face the sun, there are always a few fighting to get the best view. 

A stories pole with a difference!

Tonnerre is a village that Emrys and I stayed in when he walked with me for a week back in 2011.  For those who don't know, when he left me, he went on Germany to begin riding his (push) bike home to Adelaide.

Foster Dione, and the lavoir, Tonnerre