Braga

I left Santiago de Compostela, by bus, for Braga early on Sunday morning.  The journey, via Pontevedra then Vigo, was about two and half hours long.  As we zoomed along I reflected on how little we see when travelling this way compared to walking.  We flashed by places in minutes, that, when I walked the Camino Portuguese, were in my vision for an hour or more, not to mention the time spent exploring them.

Arco da Porta Nova

I spent a few days in Braga a few years ago while recovering from tendonitis.  Then, I didn't know about the Basilica Bom Jesus do Monte, and when Julie and I walked the Camino Portuguese we didn't have the inclination to go and see it in the pouring rain.  Hence my visit this time.
Braga has some lovely gardens


Braga, like many places in Portugal has lovely tiles on display.  They decorate buildings throughout the city, both inside and out.  The many churches have beatiful tile stories on view, but so do other buildings.
Inside Palácio do Raio

Palácio do Raio
Tiles decorating a building ...
.... and Igreja da Senhora-a-Branca

Igreja da Ordem Terceira de S. Francisco

Braga is a very easy city to get around, and it looked like it was in festival mode.  However, I think that all the street decorations are actually for the São João festival which, in Braga, goes from the 17th - 24th June.  This festival, which is in honour of Saint John the Baptist, whose feast day falls on the last day of the festival, is recognised as being the oldest such festival in Portugal, beginning around the 1100's.  
Street decorations 

The biggest event actually happens on the night of the 23rd, when bon fires are lit throughout the city.  A custom of jumping over the fires is carried out, mainly by the young and energetic.  Added to that, and the eating of sardines, people run around hitting each other on the head with plastic hammers, but years ago they used leeks!

As I said, one of the reasons for me going to Braga was to see the church Bom Jesus do Monte.  At the tourist office, I was asked if I was going by car, but I said I planned to walk.  I was told it is a long way - 5 kilometres, and I couldn't resist with a retort "that's OK,  I've just walked nearly 3,000".  His mouth fell open and he was lost for a response!

Once arriving at the foot of the steps ascending to the church, I then had to climb 116 metres via 573 steps.  I have read that pilgrims climb these steps on the knees - I didn't!  At each bend of the steps there was a small chapel, with beautiful statues depicting the Passion of Christ.  These chapels are a point of contemplation and make up a rather long, and large, Stations of the Cross. 
The start of the stairs

Inside one of the chapels, one of the Stations of the Cross.
The chapels marking the Stations of the Cross continue up the staircase, and the higher I climb, the more impressive the view.

The stairs keep ascending!

Inside the Basilica 

After exploring the church, and the shop, I then headed, on the advice of the tourist office, to the Santuário do Sameiro, several kilometres further on.  It was a lovely walk, through the park that surrounds the church and on up the hill, but sadly, on arrival, I was unable to go in because a wedding was in progress.   Mind you, I stood outside and enjoyed listening to a string quartet playing some beautiful music, including Bach's Ave Maria, Pachabel's Canon, and The Wind Beneath my Wings.  The climb was worth it for the view too.
My ultimate destination, high on the hill.




After my two days in Braga, I returned to Santiago for one more night, before heading, by train to Barcelona, and beginning the journey home.






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