To Ourense.
My goodness, I have just realised how far behind I am in posting. So I am going to have to do a massive catch up!
After leaving Verin (in the fog) I headed uphill to Monterrei Castle which overlooks the town. Massive works are being done around the castle, and so a detour was in place and I didn't get to actually walk past it, only look up at it. This was a long day (23.5 kms), along with a steady climb of 500 metres so I needed to keep pushing myself.
Monterrei Castle
The path was very pleasant, with many grand views.
Rebordondo ...
... and its Church
This rest stop was a delight
More views
Fortunately, as the day progressed the fog lifted, and the sun came out. Good for photos.
Leaving Verin
About to head up the hill to Monterrei Castle.
There were some delightful villages that I passed through, and even more delightful views as I stopped to look back. My destination for the day was a village called Viladerrei. I stayed in the albergue there, for the grand cost of €10, along with the three Spanish who I had been seeing periodically since Meson de Erosa. I was ravenous by the time I got to the village, so stopped at the only restaurant and had the Menu del dia. It was 3.55 when I arrived and initially they said they were closed, but I think they took pity on a starving peregrina and said I could eat, and a delicious meal it was too.
The albergue at Viladerrei
The three Spanish left long before daylight, but I dawdled until the sun had risen. These days I'm not keen on plodding along in the dark, especially as it was a more or less flat day of 14 kilometres to Xinzo de Limia, my destination.
The path followed the river into town
A rocky hilltop, amongst the potatoe and grain crops.
A lovely park in Xinzo de Limia
Resting at the start of the day!
The next day, though 21.5kms in length, was a fairly easy day heading to Allariz. Leaving town the path followed a busy road, but not relishing walking along that, I made my own detour, winding through back roads, only used by farmers, past vineyards and crops, and passing lakes hidden behind thick undergrowth. This is a very waterlogged area, but obviously very fertile, and as I passed through it I couldn't help but wonder what it was like for mozzies in the warmer weather.
Sandiás
A stone "bridge" alongside a stream
Houses in Torneiros
It is fascinating seeing these amazing stone walls.
I seem to have got into a habit of arriving at my destination just in time for a very late lunch / early dinner, and Allariz was no exception. I stayed in a hotel restaurant here and so was able to eat in the restaurant before it shut, then go to my room to leave my pack before heading out to explore what was a delightful old town. Narrow, winding, hilly streets lined with old buildings, and a river, lined with parks, passing at the bottom of the town. I even managed a sing in one of the churches, though sadly the convent, famous for its huge cloisters, was not open.
The Convento de Santa Clara
One of the churches in Allariz ...
Narrow steep streets in Allariz
The next day my destination was Ourense, 22kms away. It was a pretty easy day, finishing with a down hill entrance into the city - except I didn't walk that bit. By the time I reached the village of Reboredo, really a suburb, and walking on busy roads, past noisy factories, some belching smoke from chimney stacks, I decided it was time to catch a taxi for the last few (about 5) kilometres! A much more pleasant way to arrive.
A variety of paths. Grassy ...
... and muddy
I doubt this chimney was able to belch smoke.
Mind you, I had taken a fascinating detour to Santa Mariña des Augus Santas. The guide told me that it was well worthwhile visiting this village and they were correct. As I meandered towards the church I bumped into a Señora returning from it. She turned around and opened the church for me to see inside, even turning on the lights. It was a lovely church, as was the surrounds, including a fountain with special energising water, though I didn't test it. They are justifiably proud of their village and its history.
Igrexa de Santa Mariña des Augus Santas
Fonte de Santa
This Señora had just been to the fountain to fill her water bottle.
Heading to Ourense from Santa Mariña ...
... passing the remains of this ancient, possibly pre Roman, house
I have stayed in Ourense previously, and so decided I wouldn't make use of the planned rest day here and would continue walking the next day. This was also, with luck, to avoid walking in heavy rain forecast over the next few days. More next post.
Your photos are wonderful Janet and really show the beauty of the countryside and buildings.
ReplyDeleteThe local people seem very obliging and no doubt see many pilgrims travelling through there villages.
We seem to be opting for a late lunch/ early dinner these days, mind you without the walking, 🚶♀️🚶but manage to fill our days and wonder where the time has gone.
Goodness only knows how we had time to work, but retirement is certainly worth working for- to enjoy. 😂😘
Oops their villages. Probably need to go back for an English refresher course😩😂😘
ReplyDeleteThat bloomin' auto correct!. Yes, it is extraordinary how welcoming people are here, but then, I guess we are too. People are kind and generous everywhere.
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