Continuing on the Camino Sanabrés, to Verin

Well, there are always surprises on the Camino!  

After leaving Rionegro del Puente I took the road for the first few kilometres, having heard that the first part of the path was boggy.  Picking up the path again i discovered that the next section was not much better.  I picked my way to Mombuey, where there was a bustling bar open for a late brekky.  

The albergue in Rionegro del Puente. 

Heading to Mombuey

A few pilgrims were there including Garis.  I mentioned to him that I was thinking of catching a taxi if I couldn't get a bottom bunk at the albergue in Asturianos, which was seeming increasingly doubtful.  After a coffee, I declared I was going to do so anyway, and he said he would come with me.  I had an ulterior motive as I had a zoom meeting to attend at 11.00am the following morning, and I was concerned that I might be out of range.  Garis and I arranged to meet at the next village, Asturianos, and parted ways.

Dead, I hope.  I got a really frightened and moved right away - I wasn't going to investigate!

It was near the end of this last section that things started going pear shaped.  I pushed myself, stopping to watch the odd stork in its nest, or flying overhead, and arrived with no sign of Garis.  I stopped in the bar we had arranged to meet in, indulging in a coke and an ice cream.  I went in search of Garis, couldn't find him, so returned to the bar to sit it out until he turned up, as it turned out, an hour later.  He had got into trouble, seriously overheating,  and becoming dehydrated.   I made him sit down, before he fell down,  and got some cake and a Kaz Limon into him.  

The bar had no power, and no internet,  and through a car radio we discovered that it was the same for the whole country plus Portugal and Southern France.   We had no means of calling a taxi and so the bar owners took on that role, charging us a substantial €30, but we were in no position to barter.  The Señora was one who thought that the louder she shouted, the easier I would understand!  

Neither of us had any idea of hotel names, though before the internet failure I had seen one that started with a "P".  I had no idea how convenient it was and whether we could get rooms or not.  Señora shouted a list of names and when she got to one starting with "P" I said "si".  Poor Garis had no say in it.  We set off, mumbling to each other that we hoped they had rooms, and more importantly that there would be someone on the front desk.  It was yes to both, and we agreed to pay by card when the power came back on, whenevert that might be.

Our "P" hotel.  It is looking tired now, but must have been a grand place in its day.

I helped Garis to his room,  returned to mine and found my torch - the first time I have had to use it on this trip!  Another pilgrim said he had managed a lukewarm shower, and so I leapt in before it was icy!  As it turned out it did come hot, so I only had half a cold shower.  My next task was to find some food.  Goats cheese and yoghurt for Garis, plus bread and biscuits!  Not the most nutritious, but it had to be what was available and what I could pay for with cash.

Chatting the next morning all four pilgrims staying there decided we would stay until the power came on, which, as it turned out was a few hours later.  Garis and I went wandering around the town, checking out the view from the castle, meeting up with the Western Australian pilgrim, Glade, but still no connectivity.   Relaxing in my room at about 11.30 half hour after my meeting had started I heard funny noises from the phone, and yes, I was connected, my reason for being there originally, so was able to go to the last part of the meeting!

The old part of Puebla Sanabria is on a hill, steep climbs all round.

There is a story associated with the castle  (below) about a pilgrim, and a stone boat.  Rather than me simplifying it I will post a photo and let you read (you will have to enlarge it)

Our hotel from the top of the hill.  The path goes right past the hotel

There were all sorts of stories from this experience.  However, all four of us were well off.  We each had a good sized room, we were all able to sort food and drink, and we were able to enjoy the historical town of Puebla Sanabria.

The next day we all set off to climb to the highest point on this Camino, Alto del Pardonelo at 1,350 metres.  Well, Peter (also an Australian) and I did, but Garis and William (from Holland) caught us up at the little village of Requejo, where they decided to stop for the night.  Peter and I had both reserved a room in the hotel which was just over the brow of hill.

Passing through Requejo

The Ayuntamiento in Requejo...

.... and an albergue

After Requejo  the path steeply climbed up to Alto del Pardonelo...

... passing under several bridges ...

... with wonderful views, in the distance

I was ready to set off the next day after an early breakfast, but on going outside I discovered a dense fog.   I decided it was unsafe to walk (on the road) in these conditions and so returned to the bar where I had noticed an older "hippy" looking chap.  I bailed him up, and when I confirmed we were heading in the same direction, asked for a lift to the next town, where he dropped me at the bar.  This turned out to be a non walking day, as I then caught a taxi to the next stop in O Pereiro.   Here I treated myself to another wonderful "Menu del dia" lunch in the hotel restaurant.   

The next day the forecast was for thunderstorms, which I wasn't very happy about, but decided to "sprint", or go as fast as I could to A Gudiña and then decide what to do.  The thunder very quickly moved off to the distance, and the rain held off, and so I kept walking.  A short day really, just under 15kms, and I stopped at a hotel at Meson de Erosa, seemingly in the middle of nowhere.  I had gone so fast, that it was another day where I could have the menu del dia for lunch, and what's more,  I beat the rain!

A Gudiña 

Nearly to Meson de Erosa 

My destination 

I was not looking forward to walking the next day as more storms were forecast. Coming out of the hotel I could see three pilgrims ahead of me.  I was walking just a little quicker than them and eventually caught them after a steep descent to cross a river.  After exchanging a brief  "hola" I set off up the hill, stopping at a bus shelter for a rest.  It is not tempting to linger when rain threatens  and there is nowhere dry to sit - bus shelters are perfect though.  The three Spanish pilgrims caught me up and we exchanged a few more words.  They were heading to the next village, Vendas da Barreira, but that was only about 15 kms in total for me, so I had a different plan.

A bushfire went through here last summer

Coincidentally I stopped at the bar where the 3 Spanish had booked a room, and after a few more words we parted and I set off for the village of Fumaces.  I was headed there because there was a restaurant in that town.  My plan was to have lunch, and then ask them to call a taxi for me to go to Verin my destination.   It was only about 10kms, but as I would have already done 20kms that day I knew it would be too much for me.  I walked 20kms, had a delicious goats cheese salad, and the taxi delivered me right to the hotel - a good day all round.

Passing through Vendas da Barreira...

... and passing through A Trepa

Heavy skies, but no heavy rain

The first lavadero (lavoir) that I have seen on this trip at Fumaces.

I have had a rest day in Verin, a sizeable,  pleasant town.  I have avoided the rain showers as I have meandered around, and this is one of the few times when a rest day has been that - a rest!  Tomorrow I am off, uphill, on the next stage, to eventually arrive in Ourense.

The queue at the sweets (pastries) shop!