Toledo

Rather than do one massive post I am going to do two shorter ones (but probably still long!).  First I will tell you about this magnificent town, which I have thoroughly enjoyed visiting, and then I will do a post on Semana Santa here.

Toledo, viewed from across the Rio Tagus

I treated myself to a tourist train ride around the town.  I like doing this because you learn snippets that might otherwise be undiscovered.  For example, I learnt that a very large building outside the city walls was a Renaissance hospital, built there so that any diseases treated would be less likely to infect the people in the town.

The train, looking across to army training buildings, on the other side of the River.

The domed roofed hospital in the distance - well outside the city walls.

Toledo is hilly!  My hotel was at the start of a hill, and I sometimes found myself getting confused as to where I was as the climbs or descents seemed to be in the wrong place.  On the train excursion I discovered that Toledo, which was apparently known as the Jerusalem of the west, is built on seven hills.   This accounts for why there was always a hill to climb, or descend, and some were very steep.

There is a lot of mudéjar architecture in the town.  Unfortunately one of the very striking mudéjar buildings, the church of Santiago was not open.  However there are a number of monumental churches which were, and my "bracelet" ticket allowed me to visit them all.  

The Church of Santiago....

... and it's door, which was firmly shut every time I passed!

My favourite of these was the former synagogue,  Santa María La Blanca Synagogue.  It is a most beautiful building, and as the name suggests, very white.  It was converted into a church in the 15th Century, and later still chapels and vaults were added.

Inside Santa María La Blanca Synagogue

I visited the museum of Sefardic culture, El Tránsito Synagogue.  A very beautiful building, with a lot of fascinating information about the Jewish people. I could have spent a lot longer there, but it was close to closing time, and we were hussled forward!  

El Tránsito Synagogue. 

Another mudéjar monument is the oldest mosque, Cristo de la Luz, also later converted into a church.  It is small, but very elegant,  with a delightful garden and beautiful views over the walls.

Inside and outside of Cristo de la Luz

The Cathedral was impressive.  Vast, as they all are.  I enjoyed studying the beautiful carvings in the choir, though I wished I could get out a soft toothbrush and get rid of the grime in the crevices.  There were also some delightful stone carvings in places, and another chapel dedicated to Santiago. 

Some of the stone carvings in the Cathedral. 

A sculpture of St James in the retablo of the Capilla de Santiago. 

My "bracelet" ticket that I purchased to see the monuments took me to a total of 7 different churches.  One of them, San Tomé, houses a huge painting by El Greco called The Burial of the Count of Orgaz

The Burial of the Count of Orgaz

Doménikos Theotokópoulos, known as El Greco, moved to Toledo in 1577 where he lived until his death in 1614 aged 73.  His home, located in the Jewish quarter has been made into a museum, with many of his paintings on display.  

Inside the museum....

.. and in the garden.

There are many more buildings I could show you.  The city is just full of interesting things to see.  I did decide that I would give the museum of arms and the museum of torture a miss!  Here are some random photos. 

Alcázar de Toledo

My hotel on the right

One of the many gates.  Puerta del Sol.

Monasterio de San Juan de los Reys

The back of Puerta del Bisagra

I visited the Iglesia de los Jesuitas (Iglesia de San Idelfonso) first of all.   It is a large elegant building, with two towers that overlook the city.  The stairs were quite easy to begin with, and I was lulled into a false sense of security, and got to a point where the only way was forward.  I haven't got much to show for it as I was too nervous to take photos.   I did get a good view of the city though!  Foolish me!

The view, looking towards the Alcázar  in the distance.

Thank goodness the clapper had been removed and there was no danger of being deafened. 

Looking down, from the gallery.  The organ is behind me.

The tower 

This, below, might look like a church, but it is the first thing one sees of Toledo when entering the city by train.  This version of it was built in 1929 - in the neo mudéjar style, the first station being destroyed by fire.

I loved my stay in Toledo and am so glad I stayed for more than a day.  This post has talked about the city, the next one will fill you in on my experiences of Semana Santa there.