Camino Teresiana, part 2

The Camino Teresiana has been a double joy for me.  It is spring and the countryside is a verdant green, but the special treat is that I have been able to complete it.  A big surprise to many, given the state of my injuries 3 months earlier!  Part way through I marked the 12 week anniversary of my fall, when I had been warned that my ankle would continue to swell for at least a year and that it was unlikely to ever feel normal again!  I can happily report that, apart from a tender knuckle bone (if knocked), neither of these things have eventuated!

Now, back to our journey.  We left Narros del Castillo, in the cool of the morning, enjoying the views of the snow capped mountains in the distance.  We set off the 8 kms towards el Convento Duruelo.  The path was lovely, passing by green fields, and then crossing a small river, this time by a bridge,

until we finally reached the convent.  Unfortunately we were unable to get a stamp in our credencial as the convent had closed for lunch (and presumably mid morning prayers), but we had a lovely rest and a snack, before setting off again. 

Convento Duruelo 

and inside

The path took us down the valley beside the Rio Alma, which after about 5 kms called us to rest beside it.  We had passed a very strange "village".  It had no name, but what looked like a very big church.  We could only assume that it was either a disused monastery or a land holding that once belonged to someone wealthy.  Either way, it was nameless on our maps.

"No name" convent / village

In the village of Manjera de Abajo we were delighted to find a bar open, and stopped for a late lunch and a cold drink.  We had planned to walk to the next village 2.5kms away, and then call a taxi to our destination. 

This was our view, with the town of Peñaranda in the distance.  I walked another 100 metres ...

... and there was Manjera de Arbajo

Jill coming to the top of the rise.

This was our plan from the beginning, however, at the bar plans changed.  Here our difference in translating the language showed.  An older man had come out of the bar and was chatting to us - he in pigeon English, with a bit of French, and even some German, we, in pigeon Spanish.  It was a pleasant change because the usual thing when we tell people we don't speak Sanish is for them to start shouting at us in even faster Spanish - louder and faster surely makes it easier to understand!  This man kindly offered to take us to the small town we were headed for, which I caught on to immediately, through his gestures and body language,  whereas Jill was busy trying to translate what he was saying.  I might add her Spanish is far superior to mine.

We would have been walking to Peñaranda de Bracamonte, our destination, in the middle afternoon.   It had warmed up considerably, and the path went past field after field of trigo (wheat).  This is very much a place for grain.  Our friendly driver delivered us to the hotel, even taking it upon himself to call the receptionist as they were missing from their post.  

We planned to stay in Peñaranda de Bracamonte for two nights as we were now on the Northern route, and accommodation was non existent as far as we could tell, all the way to Alba de Tormes.  We enjoyed spending two nights in the town instead of the usual one.

Scenes from Peñaranda de Bracamonte 

The next day, after debating amongst ourselves as to whether we walked forward, catching a taxi back, or vice a versa, we opted for the forward option.  More fields, all the way to Coca de Alba.  Unfortunately, we didn't find any of them open, but we took special pleasure from seeing the churches in this part of the world which showed strong mudejar influences.

Peñarandilla 

The church in Coca de Alba (above and below)

As we approached the half way point, on the outskirts of Nava de Sotrobal, we had another river to cross via stepping stones.  This was much faster and deeper than the other one we had crossed, with water just flowing over the top of a couple of the stones.  A few days earlier we would have definitely had wet feet, and perhapsnot even able to cross!

In Coca de Alba we called on the assistance of a local man to call a taxi for us, though the next morning Jill successfully did the honours.  We took a whole day to walk to Coca de Alba, with no bar stops the entire way, and only 20 minutes to return to Peñaranda.

The following day, was bitter sweet.  As with any journey that is coming to an end there is joy and a sense of achievement at completing the task, but also a tinge of sadness that the journey is coming to an end.  After so many days of flat terrain this final day had a few gentle hills to attack, still through farmland.  We passed two villages on this last leg, Peñarandilla and Garcihernándas, before we reached Alba de Tormes.  We had high hopes of a bar being open in the second place, but no such luck,  and so a muesli bars beside the pelotta court was our refreshment break.

We were surprised, and delighted to find a bar open in Peñarandilla.  A bloke pulled up as we arrived and parked his tractor before heading to the bar!

After this final 20 kms, the actual entrance into Alba was very industrial and disappointing,  but once inside the town we decided we liked the place, and from a distance it looked good.  A very old town, with ancient churches and convents, a castle, and even a bull ring!  Best of all were the storks, which, as usual proved a great time waster.

On the way into town Alba de Tormes 

Inside the church with St Teresa's tomb

One of the many churches in Alba de Tormes ...

... and a former convent. 

Alba de Tormes 

The Spanish name for storks is cigüeña 

Just one of the beautiful church vestments on display in the museum.  Wonderful needle work.

Our hotel was at the bottom of the hill, near the river.  After leaving our bags, and having a short rest, we set off back uphill to visit the church where St Teresa's tomb was - but it is currently empty,  for reasons we couldn't decipher, and even if it were there, so many parts are missing because other churches etc have claimed bits of her!  We collected a certificate  - I think it is called a Teresiana - and then went searching, unsuccessfully, for a tube to carry it in.  We settled on a sturdy enveloped instead and posted it home.

Complete!

Both Jill and I have thoroughly enjoyed walking this Camino.  It is not a journey to attempt in the summer because this part of the world gets very hot, and there is not a lot of shade.  We did it at a perfect time, cool, even cold in the mornings, but warm later in the day.  The countryside was nice and green, and almost every day we had clear sight of snow capped mountains, a novelty for both of us.  The advantage for me was this was a gentle introduction back into walking after my broken leg, though I'm not sure the Doctors would agree that walking close to a 120 kms with 8kg of extra weight counts as gentle! 

We decided, because of the delay due to the Jill's "lost" pack, and taking an extra day walking, that we would catch the bus to Salamanca.  I probably needed to give my foot a bit of a rest too.  But that will all have to wait for the next post